But a funny thing happened on the way to the Forum I call “work” on Friday.
OK, So it wasn’t actually funny, it was more of a “Pain in the Ass”. Late model Ford and Mazda truck owners pay attention.
As I’m in the home stretch to my appraoch to work on Friday, I notice that my headlights are flickering as though they’re only getting half or three-quarter power for a second or two, but not in correspondence with the bumps in the road. When I pull up into the parking lot and put the truck in park to get out and lock the so-called ‘security gate’, the lights just shut off. The corner/parking lights are on and the switch is in the “ON” position, but I’ve got no lights.
So I lock the gate, get back in the truck and go to my parking spot. There I test to see if I have any way to fire up these bastards so that I can drive home at 0500 or if I’m going to have to wait until daylight before going home.
The “ON” switch is on the lower left hand side of the dash panel and it has three positions “OFF”, “Running Lights On” and “ON”. Fiddling with the switch gets me nothing, so I start playing with the turn signal bar because it controls the high beams.
Normal function is to push it forward and the high beams come on or pull it backwards and they flash on. I push it forward and get nothing. I pull it backwards and finally get a dose of my very bright blue headlights reflecting of the white building.
All of this means that, you guessed it, if I want to go home when I’m done at work (usually 0500 on Fridays) instead of daybreak (approximately 0730 in Seattle these days) I have to hold my high beams on with my left hand for 30 miles. I’m sure my fellow drivers at that time of morning loved me.
I got home and popped the headlight switch out of the dash rather easily, only to find that my voltmeter is kaput. So now I wait until day break for the shop to open at 0830 and hope they can get me in before I have to go to work on Monday. The wife wants to go to Wally World after she gets home at 0800, so off we go. On the way home from WW we go to the shop and they have a wide open day and advise me to bring it in ASAP before they fill up.
$150 in parts later, I find out that my voltmeter wouldn’t have helped me much as it was the turn signal bar that went to shit and I cannot test that without going way deeper into my tilt steering column than I would have been able to do in my driveway (the truck is too large to get into the garage, time to get a bigger garage).
And that is where my range fund money went.
Here is where you late model Ford and Mazda truck owners will want to listen up, because I’m pretty sure I have diagnosed the problem:
When I worked as a map geek for the contractor who did the ADA (Americans with Disabilities Act), DSHS (Dept of Social and Health Services) and the W2W (Welfare to Work) transportation in King County, we used modified Ford E450 vans. At around 40,000 miles just about every one of the vans had the switch that controlled their OverDrive go bad. At first they thought it was a problem with the Ford parts subcontractor because it happened again at around 80,000 miles.
But when I bought my F150, I realized that it was an interior design flaw.
The two vehicles share a similar dash design and when the PRNDL lever, with the OD control switch on the end of it, was in “D”, it sat directly in front of the right hand, driver’s side, dashboard heat vent.
You spend 40,000 miles sitting in front of a hot air vent and then tell me you don’t feel like giving up function.
I pointed this out to the lead tech in our shop this and they glued the vents shut. Oddly enough, when 120,000 miles came around, nothing happened. The OD’s kept working and I proceeded to never open my up. If I wanted warmth from the heater, I left only the left hand driver’s side one open and the two on the passenger side, or used the window vents (aka ‘Defroster”) or the floor vents.
However, because the turn signal bar, in the center “OFF” position, did not quite stick out far enough to rest in front of the left hand driver’s side vent, I never thought to close that one.
Stupid me.
My truck is rapidly approaching 100,000 miles (99K and some change) and that vent has remained open since I bought it with 28,000 miles. The turn signal bar, along with controlling the turn signals and the high beams, also has the controls for the wipers (including 8 overly convenient intermittent speeds) and the washer fluid pump switch.
I have been noticing since Spring of this year that the washer fluid switch wasn’t working according to plan. Sometimes I would have to push it three or four times to get it to spray. I thought that there must be a hole in the tubing causing a vaccum leak (it resides in a hot engine compartment and flexes every week when the hood gets opened) and that the fluid was just running back down the tubing. But now that I look back on it, and now that the new turn signal bar’s washer fluid button works flawlessly, I see the warning sign.
Ford supposedly put $2 Billion-plus into R&D for the 1997 and later F Series trucks.
I think I found something yesterday they should have spent an extra $10KÂ testing for.